Sidi Kaouki
First Impressions
Sidi Kaouki is about as far removed from a modern tourist town as you can get.
Arriving here felt like stepping into a small traditional Berber village that happened to have a surf beach attached to it. Apart from a single paved road running through the centre of town, most streets were little more than dusty tracks made up of dirt, gravel, and rocks.
The town itself was incredibly simple.
A three-storey surf, yoga, and restaurant building stood out in the centre of town, while the Kasbah dominated the southern edge. Beyond that, Sidi Kaouki felt rustic, traditional, and largely untouched by large-scale tourism.
At first, that simplicity was appealing.
But as the days passed, we realised there wasn't a great deal to explore beyond the beach and the handful of businesses scattered throughout town.
What We Found in Sidi Kaouki
Life in Sidi Kaouki revolves around three things: surfing, horse riding, and slowing down.
The beach stretches for kilometres and is the focal point of almost everything that happens in town. Surfers head into the waves, horse riders move along the shoreline, and visitors spend their days bouncing between beach cafes and surf schools.
Unlike Essaouira, there wasn't much pressure from vendors or tourist operators.
The town felt quieter and more authentic, although that also meant fewer services, fewer conveniences, and fewer options when it came to food, shopping, and entertainment.
For travellers seeking a simple beach lifestyle, that may be exactly what they're looking for.
For us, nearly three weeks was probably longer than we needed.
Highlights
Surfing and Bodyboarding
The beach became a regular part of our routine.
Compared to Essaouira, the surf felt rougher and more powerful, which made learning to surf a little more challenging. The kids quickly decided they preferred bodyboarding and spent hours catching waves and getting dumped in the shore break.
The water remained surprisingly cold despite Morocco moving into summer, and wetsuits made a huge difference, especially for longer sessions.
The surf shop crew were once again fantastic.
Much like our experience in Essaouira, they were welcoming, friendly, and genuinely great with the kids.
Horse Riding on the Beach
Horse riding was the main reason we ventured to Sidi Kaouki. Having the beach right there was a bonus.
Riding along the beach at sunset, through the dunes, and even taking the horses into the ocean created some incredible memories.
The kids absolutely loved it.
There were a few unexpected moments along the way that kept things interesting, and watching Emmett have a go at trotting was a proud moment for all of us.
While we enjoyed the experience, by the end of two weeks we felt we had probably had our fill of horse riding.
Traditional Moroccan Experiences
One of the unexpected highlights of our stay came through the cultural activities.
Learning how argan oil is traditionally produced gave us an appreciation for one of Morocco's most famous exports, while cooking tagines and couscous provided a hands-on introduction to Moroccan food and culture.
These experiences offered a deeper connection to local life than many of the more tourist-focused activities we encountered elsewhere.
Accommodation and Daily Life
Our accommodation was a traditional Berber-style property and provided an authentic glimpse into local living.
We had a two-bedroom room with a lounge area, bathroom, and a small kitchen space. However, there was no fridge or cooking facilities inside the room itself. Those were located in a separate shared building used by other guests.
The property was also home to a surprising number of animals.
More than ten stray cats roamed the grounds, along with several dogs, countless bees, and eventually what felt like an endless supply of biting insects.
Comfort was another challenge.
The beds were some of the least comfortable we encountered during our travels. There was no air-conditioning or fans, and rooms heated up significantly during the day. At night we often wanted to leave windows open for airflow but couldn't because of the cats, insects, and other unwelcome visitors waiting outside.
Food was a mixed experience throughout town.
Some restaurants were surprisingly expensive while others offered lower prices but noticeably lower quality. We eventually found ourselves returning to the Kasbah regularly as it offered the best combination of value, quality, and consistency.
After several weeks of stomach issues, finding somewhere we trusted became increasingly important.
Challenges
While Sidi Kaouki had its highlights, it was the most challenging destinations of our Morocco journey.
The wind played a major role in that.
The first few days and final few days of our stay were extremely windy, making it unpleasant to spend extended periods outside. While the wind was fantastic for surfers and kitesurfers, it wasn't ideal for simply relaxing on the beach.
The sandflies also became relentless towards the end of our stay.
Both Kia and I were heavily bitten, leaving itchy welts that lingered long after we left Morocco.
Combined with ongoing stomach issues, uncomfortable beds, and the frustrations surrounding planned 4-week horse riding experience, the challenges gradually began to outweigh the positives.
Looking Back
Looking back, Sidi Kaouki gave us some fantastic memories.
The horse rides at sunset.
Surfing and bodyboarding together as a family.
Learning about Moroccan culture through food and argan oil.
Watching the kids build confidence in new environments.
But if we're being completely honest, it isn't a destination we would rush back to.
For us, the activities were far more memorable than the town itself.
While some travellers may love the simplicity, isolation, and laid-back surf culture, we found the limited amenities, strong winds, biting insects, food challenges, and accommodation issues difficult to overlook.
We're grateful for the experiences and the memories we created there, but Sidi Kaouki ultimately became a destination that reinforced how important comfort, convenience, and community can be during long-term family travel.
Explore Our Time in Sidi Kaouki
👉 Read our full Morocco budget breakdown
👉 Follow our day-to-day experiences in our Sidi Kaouki daily journals