Essaouira
First Impressions
After the chaos of Marrakech, Essaouira immediately felt more relaxed.
The roads were quieter, the pace was slower, and having the ocean nearby brought a completely different atmosphere to the city. But while it was certainly easier to navigate than Marrakech, there was still something about Essaouira that made it difficult to fully settle in.
We never really found ourselves wanting to spend hours wandering and exploring.
Instead, we tended to stick close to the beach, the surf shop, and the areas surrounding our apartment. It became more of a place to live day-to-day than a destination where we felt compelled to tick off attractions and sights.
What We Found in Essaouira
Much of life in Essaouira revolves around the beach.
The long esplanade stretching along the waterfront was always busy, but not necessarily with tourists enjoying a peaceful stroll. Vendors lined the pathway offering quad bike tours, camel rides, horse rides, surfing lessons, and anything else they thought visitors might be interested in.
Some days it felt like you couldn't walk more than fifty metres without someone approaching you.
Most were friendly enough, but the constant interruptions could become exhausting after a while.
The beach itself was huge and backed by rolling sand dunes, while the steady Atlantic winds made it easy to understand why surfers and kitesurfers are drawn here from around the world.
Highlights
The Surf Shop Community
Without question, one of the highlights of our time in Essaouira was the surf shop, KSE.
We rented equipment there, organised surf lessons for the family, and Levi completed kitesurfing lessons through the same crew.
From day one, everyone was incredibly welcoming.
The instructors made a genuine effort to include Maddie and Emmett, remembering their names, joking around with them, and making them feel like part of the team rather than just customers.
It was one of those small things that left a lasting impression and became a big part of why we enjoyed our time in Essaouira.
Surfing, Kitesurfing and the Wind
The wind in Essaouira is impossible to ignore.
For kitesurfing, it was fantastic. For sitting quietly on the beach reading a book, not so much.
The conditions were perfect for learning and improving, and it was easy to see why Essaouira has developed such a strong reputation as a watersports destination.
The waves were also ideal for beginners. We spent plenty of time in the water learning to surf, getting wiped out, and having fun as a family.
Although summer was approaching, the weather remained surprisingly mild. Mornings and evenings were often cool and the Atlantic Ocean was cold enough that wetsuits were essential for comfort.
Quad Biking the Coastline
Quad biking was one of the standout experiences of our time in Morocco.
The tour took us along the beach, through massive sand dunes, and across the rugged coastal landscape surrounding Essaouira.
The scenery alone made it worthwhile, but what really made the day special was seeing the kids get involved.
The guides let Maddie and Emmett have a turn riding the quads and Emmett was absolutely thrilled.
Along the way we stopped at a traditional fishermen's shack where we were served Moroccan mint tea and round ka’ak biscuits while overlooking the coastline.
It was one of those simple travel moments that sticks with you.
Exploring the Medina
Compared to Marrakech, Essaouira's Medina felt calmer and easier to navigate.
That said, we never spent a huge amount of time there.
The narrow laneways still felt maze-like and, with no intention of filling our bags with souvenirs, we often found ourselves wandering for a short while before heading back towards the beach.
The main square was probably our favourite part of the old town. As the sun began to set, musicians, performers, restaurants, and locals filled the space, creating a vibrant atmosphere without feeling overwhelming.
The sunsets from here were some of the best we saw during our stay.
Food and Daily Life
Our apartment ended up being one of the better places we stayed in Morocco.
It was comfortably sized with two bedrooms and a separate office, well positioned close to the beach, and sheltered enough from the wind to make daily life enjoyable.
The biggest downside was the internet, which could be frustratingly unreliable at times.
One thing that surprised us was how different daily schedules felt compared to home. Very little seemed to happen before 9am, while evenings stretched late into the night. Hearing children playing outside well past midnight on weekdays wasn't unusual.
There was a large shopping centre on the edge of town, but after visiting we found the fruit and vegetables to be fairly poor quality and the meat difficult to trust.
In the end, we discovered it was often cheaper, easier, and more enjoyable to eat out than to cook for ourselves.
Looking Back
Despite a few frustrations, we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Essaouira.
It wasn't a destination packed with famous landmarks or endless sightseeing opportunities. Instead, it offered something different.
A comfortable base.
A great beach.
Friendly people.
Excellent conditions for surfing and kitesurfing.
And enough day-to-day simplicity to allow us to slow down for a while.
Looking back, what we'll remember most isn't the Medina or the fishing port. It's the surf shop crew, the quad bikes in the sand dunes, the windy afternoons on the beach, and the feeling of finally finding a slower pace after the intensity of Marrakech.
Explore Our Time in Essaouira
👉 Read our full Morocco budget breakdown
👉 Follow our day-to-day experiences in our Essaouira daily journals